Mariquita Feast

A few months ago, I was lucky enough to be invited by my friend, Bruce Hill, executive chef and co-owner of both Bix and Picco restaurants, to the home of my favorite farmers, Andy and Julia Griffin of Mariquita Farms in Watsonville. In addition to growing what I consider to be the most flavorful produce in the Bay Area, Andy is a very astute and eloquent food and farming philosopher. His Ladybug Letter is one of the most popular food related blogs amongst the local culinary cognoscenti. Mariquita does not participate in the Saturday Ferry Building Farmer's Market, so I jump at any opportunity that arises to both personally thank the Griffins and listen to Andy expound about all things both culinary and agricultural. And the promised menu of spit roasted lamb didn't hurt either. 

    As I considered myself fortunate to receive an invitation to such an intimate affair and due to the fact that I was flying to New Orleans early the next morning to visit my family, I volunteered to be a driver. We caravanned down with ice chests full of a scary amount of assorted alcoholic beverages: champagne, wines, beers, Fernet, whiskey, (water too!). We chefs are a thirsty lot.

    I can't say enough as to how generous the Griffins are. They opened up their home and we were treated like kings. Andy took us on a tour of their farm. Their home is not by the main farm of Marquita, but nevertheless there was quite a variety of produce for us to see and for Andy to reflect upon.

The meal was spectacular. The spit roasted lamb was fantastic.  I warmed dozens and dozens of tortillas on an amazing wood burning comal that was fashioned out of an old tractor axle drum.  Julia made a variety of salsas using the tomatillos, tomatoes, and chilies grown on the farm. We all took turns tending to the pinto beans slow cooking in an unbelievably huge iron bean pot that has been in the Griffin family for generations. Julia also prepared a nopales salad that was the best I ever tasted. The vast majority of nopales that are available are the canned or jarred variety, and while I have enjoyed fresh nopales (which are vastly superior to the processed variety); I have never tasted them like this. The griffins had cut these nopales only a few hours before, from cacti that stood only a few feet from where we were enjoying this wonderful feast. To say that you could taste the difference would be an understatement. It was one of those food experiences that make you wonder whether or not you will ever be able to eat that food again, as future nopales almost certainly will not be able to measure up. Note: make sure to procure some Mariquita nopales next summer!

    I knew most of the chefs at the feast (all were mentored by Bruce and worked in his restaurants) as I had spent time with them on a culinary trip to Spain I took with CUESA in September of 2007. I relish any trip to Europe (or any other culinary destination for that matter), and certainly pride myself on the sheer volume of food that I eat there. I don't want to miss a thing – you never know if you are ever going to be back again. Needless to say, amongst this group, I have a certain image to uphold as a voracious eater, and with a spread such as this, I was happy to oblige. Five, six, seven lamb tacos (I lost count), a couple of helpings of nopales, pinto beans. The food coma sat in quick…and hard.  But I was not alone in my gluttony, as this picture of the aftermath can attest. Everyone did their part. The communal spirit and conviviality created by both Andy and Julia's conversation as well as their savory meal was truly an amazing experience. It was with a true sensation of satisfaction that I drove back up to the City, inspired by an afternoon and evening of food with chefs and farmers that I respect and admire.